Breaking Through Winter: Our Icebreaker Adventure on the Garinko III in Abashiri, Hokkaido

February in northern Japan is not gentle. Winter grips Hokkaido with a kind of quiet intensity that demands respect. The air feels sharper, the landscapes wilder, and the sea transforms into something few travelers ever imagine seeing in Japan.

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That’s exactly when my spouse and I found ourselves in the coastal city of Abashiri, standing in the biting cold, preparing to board the icebreaker Garinko III for one of the most unforgettable adventures we’ve ever shared—sailing through the drifting ice of the Sea of Okhotsk.

This wasn’t just another sightseeing activity. It felt like stepping into a completely different world, one far removed from the neon lights of Tokyo or the temples of Kyoto. Here, winter is raw, powerful, and breathtakingly beautiful.

If you’re thinking about taking this trip, booking ahead is essential. Seats fill quickly during drift ice season, and this is one experience you don’t want to miss after traveling all the way to northern Hokkaido.

But even before boarding, the experience had already begun.

Feeling the Cold—and the Excitement

The cold in Abashiri was intense—one of the coldest places I’ve ever visited. Standing near the water only amplified it. Wind swept across the harbor with a sharp bite that seemed to cut through every layer we wore. It stung our faces and crept into gloves and sleeves no matter how tightly we bundled up.

Snow lined the docks, and steam drifted from nearby buildings, curling upward into the frigid air. Travelers shuffled toward the pier, bundled in heavy coats, scarves, and hats, their breath forming clouds as they walked.

Despite the cold, there was a sense of excitement everywhere. People laughed, snapped photos, and pointed toward the ship waiting in the harbor. Everyone seemed to know they were about to experience something rare.

Standing there beside my spouse, watching the Garinko III at the dock, gratitude washed over me. Not everyone gets the chance to see Japan like this.

Have you ever stood somewhere so cold your breath freezes in front of you, yet you feel completely alive?

That’s exactly how it felt.

Preparing to Capture the Journey

We came prepared, knowing this wasn’t a typical outing. I packed two gimbals, extra batteries, charging cables, and backup gear, fully aware that cold temperatures drain electronics quickly.

And sure enough, they did. During our travels around Hokkaido, my gimbal batteries often lasted only two or three hours before dying. Sometimes the equipment malfunctioned entirely, forcing me to restart devices while my fingers grew numb.

Filming in freezing weather isn’t easy. Buttons become harder to press, screens slow down, and your hands lose feeling faster than you expect.

But beyond filming, we wanted to capture the feeling of being there—the anticipation, the cold air, and the excitement of sailing through drifting sea ice.

Have you ever taken a trip knowing the memories would stay with you long after you returned home?

Out Onto the Ice

Once aboard, we headed straight to the observation deck—and we stayed outside the entire time. We never went inside the cabin. For us, being exposed to the wind and the cold was part of the adventure. We wanted to hear the ice break, feel the wind, and experience everything fully.

Soon the crew released the lines, and the Garinko III slowly eased away from the harbor. Before we left, staff members entertained passengers by waving oversized gloves shaped like crab claws, joking with everyone and creating a fun, lighthearted sendoff. Laughter spread across the deck, briefly distracting us from the freezing wind.

At first, the ship glided smoothly over open water. Then small pieces of ice began to appear, floating across the sea like shattered glass. Gradually, the patches thickened until the water ahead was covered in drifting ice.

Then came the moment we were waiting for.

A deep rumble vibrated beneath our feet as the ship met solid ice. The Garinko III pushed forward, and massive slabs cracked, tilted, and slid aside. The sound of breaking ice echoed across the frozen sea, raw and powerful.

Standing there together, watching ice fracture around the ship, we felt awe mixed with childlike excitement. It’s not every day you watch a vessel carve its way through frozen ocean.

Above us, flocks of geese flew across the gray winter sky, their calls carried by the wind as they passed overhead. Even in these harsh conditions, life moved on, reminding us that nature adapts and survives.

Have you ever seen nature show both its beauty and its strength at the same time?

Wind, Ice, and Living in the Moment

The wind remained relentless. It whipped across the deck, numbing fingers and stinging cheeks. Filming became increasingly difficult as our hands stiffened, but we stayed outside, determined not to miss anything.

Ice slabs continued shattering and drifting apart as the ship moved forward, creating an ever-changing frozen landscape. Our batteries drained quickly, and we were grateful for the extras we had packed.

But eventually, something changed.

We stopped filming.

Sometimes you have to put the camera down and simply experience what’s happening around you. No screens, no recording—just the moment itself.

Do you ever find yourself watching something so beautiful that you forget to take a photo?

Sunset Over the Frozen Sea

Then the sky began to shift.

Clouds softened, and the sun slowly sank toward the horizon. Golden and orange light spilled across the sea, and wherever ice opened into patches of water, the surface shimmered brilliantly.

The sun cast a glowing reflection across the frozen landscape, warm light dancing between drifting slabs of ice. The contrast between fiery sunset colors and the icy sea created a scene that felt almost unreal.

Conversations around us grew quieter as everyone absorbed the view. Snow-covered hills lined the distant coast, and steam rising from buildings reminded us how severe winter truly is here.

Surrounded by drifting ice and fading light, we felt both small and deeply grateful to witness something so rare.

Have you ever watched a sunset that made everything else feel unimportant for a few minutes?

Returning to Harbor

Eventually, the Garinko III turned back toward Abashiri Harbor. Behind us, the path carved through the ice slowly disappeared as drifting slabs moved back together, erasing the ship’s trail.

The sky darkened as harbor lights appeared ahead. We remained outside until the very end, letting the cold air and final views sink in before exiting directly through the exterior doors.

Back on solid ground, our faces were numb and our cheeks burned from the wind, but our hearts were full. Even then, we could still hear the cracking ice and see the shimmering sunset reflected across the frozen sea.

Many people visit Japan for temples, cities, or cherry blossoms. Few imagine sailing through drifting sea ice.

But in Abashiri, winter reveals a completely different side of the country—wild, quiet, and breathtakingly beautiful.

Sharing the Garinko III icebreaker experience together remains one of the most emotional and unique journeys my spouse and I have ever taken.

So let me ask you:

If you had the chance, would you brave the cold to witness a frozen sea at sunset?